Under the menu item "Info" you will find "To factory settings".

SunRiser 6, select by click and confirm again several times.... 

SunRiser 4+, select by DOUBLE CLICK and confirm again several times....

If the SunRiser 6 (formerly 4+) does not turn off the light permanently, there is probably a bug in your program, an example:

• 8:00=100%
• 12:00=0%
• 20:00=100%

Result: Only at exactly 12:00 is the lighting at 0%, just one second later the brightness increases again until 100% is reached at 20:00.

• 8:00=100%
• 12:00=0%
• 16:00=0%
• 20:00=100%

Result: From 12:00 to 16:00 the light is at 0%.

Check the programming again. You must also pay attention to the previous and next points.

A well-known problem in many areas that have something to do with light, such as LED control or photography, is the subjective perception of brightness in relation to the actual power of the light. The problem here lies in the characteristic curve of the human eye. This is not linear, or more precisely: it is almost logarithmic. This makes it possible to perceive a very wide brightness range, from a full moon with ¼ lux to normal desk lighting with 750 lux to a bright summer day with up to 100,000 lux. Such highly dynamic signals can only be handled with a logarithmic characteristic curve.

To counteract this effect, there is the so-called gamma correction. Mathematically, this function is a power function with an exponent, often called gamma for short, as the only parameter. We have now added exactly this function to the daily planning. Pre-calculations, previously made with more powerful computers, increase the accuracy and relieve the comparatively small processor of the SunRiser.

In the function test, on the other hand, we work with the direct power value, i.e. the value 1 to 1000 stands for the actual power that the LED consumes, 500 would therefore mean that 50% of the maximum current power is applied. If you now specify 50% in the daily planning, this means that the planning tries to produce a 50% brightness, this is then approximately at the value 32 in the function test (one cannot say this exactly because the time factor also plays a role here and therefore the final value sometimes deviates in order to improve a smoother transition to the next stage).

In planning, however, for users who want to have full control over performance, is to create an option that turns off this gamma correction and thus does an absolute, linear performance fading over the set time period. A further step after that would be the possibility to adjust the gamma correction instead of just switching it off.

If you activate the moon, it will shine according to reality, this can also be during the day. This can of course be an undesirable effect. It is best to use a separate LED for the moon simulation. On http://www.mondverlauf.de/ you can check when the moon rises and sets, in one of the next versions you will be able to determine the GPS coordination for the calculation yourself.

Another helpful option that we will add soon is the setting of the period of the day where a moonrise can only happen.

Rain is handled in fronts in the same way as thunderstorms, i.e. a rain front is defined randomly in between, but since the rain tries to work off a certain % of rain per day, it is not (currently) possible for the user to influence this. Please note that the rain always occurs in combination with the thunderstorm, as long as a thunderstorm is set.

The entire web frontend uses an API to bring your configuration to the SunRiser. This API allows you to set the configuration, install firmware or any other functions you have in the web interface.

The communication for this runs as a MessagePack over HTTP from the SunRiser. We plan to add at least one more API via GET parameters to be integrated in systems like Fhem. On request we will also document the MessagePack API, but we plan to do this only for the GET API.

This will most likely be the rain or cloud simulation. Depending on how high the current value of the daily or weekly planning is, this can lead to very noticeable flickering, which some customers have already reported as a malfunction. When switching off the simulation, please note that the setting is available separately for each profile, so you must make sure to switch off the simulation in all profiles.

In the expert menu we have provided a function that allows you to copy back and forth between the programmes of the weekly planning or the daily planning. The markings in the programme or the daily planning are converted into comma-separated lists with the minutes of the day and the performance alternating. Simply copy from one field to another. You can also edit the values directly here, just make sure that the daily minute can be a maximum of 1439 and the power a maximum of 100.

If the SunRiser restarts sporadically, does not save settings, activates the LEDs unscheduled or does not load the web interface completely, there may be a defect (write/read error) on the SD card of the SunRiser.

In spite of several function tests by us before shipment, such an error of the MicroSD card can unfortunately not be avoided completely.

Solution 1

Often this problem can be solved with our factory tool. The internal SD card of the Suniser 8 is reformatted, the current firmware is installed and then your configuration is reloaded into the fresh system. If there are problems loading and restoring your configuration - please dispense with this point, repeat the process and select "no". After the restart, you can import your personal backup file in the usual way.

Let's go, open this link and follow the instructions/options.

http://sunriser.ledaquaristik.de/factory.html

Solution 2

If the above procedure is unsuccessful, you can alternatively open the SunRiser 8 and remove the MicroSD card.

See a photo at:http://srdemo.ledaquaristik.de/img/sdcard.jpg

Attention: Before you start, disconnect the power supply and disconnect all plugs of the LEDs.

Replacing the microSD card does not affect the guarantee or warranty, we consider this as regular use of the unit.

Now reformat the microSD card (FAT32, no quick formatting) and then save the firmware file "NEW.BEE" on the reformatted card. (You can also use another/new SD card of any size (from 2GB)).

Download the latest SunRiser 8 firmware ("NEW.BEE") at: http://sunriser.ledaquaristik.de/NEW.BEE.

Then insert the card back into the SunRiser 8 and close the unit. The firmware will be installed automatically when the unit is switched on and the SunRiser will restart. After the restart you can read in your personal backup file in the usual way.

No, the clouds and rain are not visible when the brightness setting is set to 0%, because they only work by lowering the brightness for a short time. Nevertheless, the SunRiser tries to maintain a certain minimum brightness.

The probability refers to the complete day, i.e. to see clouds (or rain) all day, you must set the probability to 100%. If the probability is set to e.g. 50%, the SunRiser will literally flip a coin every day and if it is heads there will be clouds. It is still possible that the amount of clouds or rain on these days may be very low to almost non-existent.

Possible solutions:

Connect the SunRiser to the router. If necessary, do without repeaters or PowerLAN.
Call up the SunRiser Finderhttp://sunriser.ledaquaristik.de/

Also:

If you use a GBit switch, make sure that it also accepts 10/100Mbit devices.
DHCP should be enabled in your router
Check that the SunRiser is not blocked by the router's MAC address filter.
Eco or energy saving mode of the router: off
If necessary, disconnect other network devices as a test

The rain simulation and the cloud simulation differ primarily in the commonality and in the duration of the brightness changes. A raindrop is a short darkening, while a cloud can darken over a longer period of time. Also, with clouds, all LEDs are connected together. If 3-4 LED bars are assigned to the cloud simulation, they all darken together. When it rains, on the other hand, all LED bars produce raindrops independently to support the image of a "chaotic" rain.

The higher the value, the more intensively clouds and rain darken the lighting. It is a relative value, i.e. it becomes less and less dark when the general brightness is low anyway.

A well-known problem in many areas that have something to do with light, such as LED control or photography, is the subjective perception of brightness in relation to the actual power of the light. The problem here lies in the characteristic curve of the human eye. This is not linear, or more precisely: it is almost logarithmic. This makes it possible to perceive a very wide brightness range, from a full moon with ¼ lux to normal desk lighting with 750 lux to a bright summer day with up to 100,000 lux. Such highly dynamic signals can only be handled with a logarithmic characteristic curve.

To counteract this effect, there is the so-called gamma correction. Mathematically, this function is a power function with an exponent, often called gamma for short, as the only parameter. We have now added exactly this function to the daily planning. Pre-calculations, previously made with more powerful computers, increase the accuracy and relieve the comparatively small processor of the SunRiser.

In the function test, on the other hand, we work with the direct power value, i.e. the value 1 to 1000 stands for the actual power that the LED consumes, 500 would therefore mean that 50% of the maximum current power is applied. If you now specify 50% in the daily planning, this means that the planning tries to produce a 50% brightness, this is then approximately at the value 32 in the function test (one cannot say this exactly because the time factor also plays a role here and therefore the final value sometimes deviates in order to improve a smoother transition to the next stage).

In planning, however, for users who want to have full control over performance, is to create an option that turns off this gamma correction and thus does an absolute, linear performance fading over the set time period. A further step after that would be the possibility to adjust the gamma correction instead of just switching it off.

Rain is handled in fronts in the same way as thunderstorms, i.e. a rain front is defined randomly in between, but since the rain tries to work off a certain % of rain per day, it is not (currently) possible for the user to influence this. Please note that the rain always occurs in combination with the thunderstorm, as long as a thunderstorm is set.

The entire web frontend uses an API to bring your configuration to the SunRiser. This API allows you to set the configuration, install firmware or any other functions you have in the web interface.

The communication for this runs as a MessagePack over HTTP from the SunRiser. We plan to add at least one more API via GET parameters to be integrated in systems like Fhem. On request we will also document the MessagePack API, but we plan to do this only for the GET API.

In the expert menu we have provided a function that allows you to copy back and forth between the programmes of the weekly planning or the daily planning. The markings in the programme or the daily planning are converted into comma-separated lists with the minutes of the day and the performance alternating. Simply copy from one field to another. You can also edit the values directly here, just make sure that the daily minute can be a maximum of 1439 and the power a maximum of 100.

No, the clouds and rain are not visible when the brightness setting is set to 0%, because they only work by lowering the brightness for a short time. Nevertheless, the SunRiser tries to maintain a certain minimum brightness.

The probability refers to the complete day, i.e. to see clouds (or rain) all day, you must set the probability to 100%. If the probability is set to e.g. 50%, the SunRiser will literally flip a coin every day and if it is heads there will be clouds. It is still possible that the amount of clouds or rain on these days may be very low to almost non-existent.

The rain simulation and the cloud simulation differ primarily in the commonality and in the duration of the brightness changes. A raindrop is a short darkening, while a cloud can darken over a longer period of time. Also, with clouds, all LEDs are connected together. If 3-4 LED bars are assigned to the cloud simulation, they all darken together. When it rains, on the other hand, all LED bars produce raindrops independently to support the image of a "chaotic" rain.

The following sections describe maintenance work that is required for optimal and trouble-free operation. Regular maintenance extends the service life and ensures the function of the products over a long period of time.

• During maintenance and servicing, always disconnect the lighting from the mains. 
  If necessary, we recommend cleaning with a soft cloth and mild detergent.
• Permanent moisture as well as limescale and dirt deposits can negatively affect the light quality, performance and service life of the LED bars.
• For closed covers, we recommend using the CleanCover.
• For light sources that cool passively via the ambient air, choose a well-ventilated location. Complete enclosure leads to a build-up of heat and impairs the service life. With closed aquarium covers, the existing openings for cables and hoses are usually sufficient for ventilation; observe the heat development and create additional openings if necessary.
• Compared to fresh water, seawater is an extremely aggressive medium and only very few materials can withstand direct and permanent contact. In order not to shorten the life of the LED bars unnecessarily, appropriate precautions should be taken when using them in seawater. A glass cover on the aquarium is probably the best protection for the lighting. The water cooling system can only be used in marine environments with the TITAN extension!

In addition, the instructions in the operating manual must be observed.

A failure of this kind of a complete LED bar is very unlikely. Usually, such a failure is due to a faulty connection or cable extension. Therefore, please check the connection to the power supply/control unit to ensure that the terminals are correctly and firmly connected.

An improper cable extension/connection can lead to reduced performance, flickering or failure (loose contact).

You should have no or very little algae problems with LED lighting, because the light lacks a UV fraction.
In some rare cases, switching to a different type of light can lead to an unattractive build-up of algae. This can happen in particular if there is a great difference between the light, specifically with regard to quality. I could see this happening here.
If you have a dimmer, you could also temporarily reduce the brightness to ensure a more gradual move to LED light. 

Please understand that it is very difficult, if not impossible, to diagnose problems without being there on the spot.
• Water pollution? Phosphate? Nitrate?
• Perhaps the LED lighting is now stronger than the previous lighting system. 
• You are using (too much) fertiliser because the plants are not consuming as much of it under LED light as they did before
• The period of lighting has been changed 
• The light colour is much different to that used before 
  
If you are operating all the LED bars at full power at the same time, I would suggest initially switching 2 of them off (or even all 3) then increasing the quantity of light each week (as long as algae growth reduces). = darkness treatment.

The heat development of a power supply during continuous operation is normal and unavoidable. This is due to the thermal management, where the power supplies cool themselves through the casing, thereby generating heat. However, the power supplies are equipped with overheating protection. It's crucial that the power supply is properly sized to ensure optimal performance.

The temperature of a LED bar is directly related to its power. Thus, a slight warming of LED bars and the power supply is normal. However, it's crucial to ensure adequate air circulation to dissipate the generated heat. The existing openings in the cover are typically sufficient for this purpose.

If the SunRiser restarts sporadically, does not save settings, activates the LEDs unscheduled or does not load the web interface completely, there may be a defect (write/read error) on the SD card of the SunRiser.

In spite of several function tests by us before shipment, such an error of the MicroSD card can unfortunately not be avoided completely.

Solution 1

Often this problem can be solved with our factory tool. The internal SD card of the Suniser 8 is reformatted, the current firmware is installed and then your configuration is reloaded into the fresh system. If there are problems loading and restoring your configuration - please dispense with this point, repeat the process and select "no". After the restart, you can import your personal backup file in the usual way.

Let's go, open this link and follow the instructions/options.

http://sunriser.ledaquaristik.de/factory.html

Solution 2

If the above procedure is unsuccessful, you can alternatively open the SunRiser 8 and remove the MicroSD card.

See a photo at:http://srdemo.ledaquaristik.de/img/sdcard.jpg

Attention: Before you start, disconnect the power supply and disconnect all plugs of the LEDs.

Replacing the microSD card does not affect the guarantee or warranty, we consider this as regular use of the unit.

Now reformat the microSD card (FAT32, no quick formatting) and then save the firmware file "NEW.BEE" on the reformatted card. (You can also use another/new SD card of any size (from 2GB)).

Download the latest SunRiser 8 firmware ("NEW.BEE") at: http://sunriser.ledaquaristik.de/NEW.BEE.

Then insert the card back into the SunRiser 8 and close the unit. The firmware will be installed automatically when the unit is switched on and the SunRiser will restart. After the restart you can read in your personal backup file in the usual way.

If the SunRiser 6 (formerly 4+) does not turn off the light permanently, there is probably a bug in your program, an example:

• 8:00=100%
• 12:00=0%
• 20:00=100%

Result: Only at exactly 12:00 is the lighting at 0%, just one second later the brightness increases again until 100% is reached at 20:00.

• 8:00=100%
• 12:00=0%
• 16:00=0%
• 20:00=100%

Result: From 12:00 to 16:00 the light is at 0%.

Check the programming again. You must also pay attention to the previous and next points.

Possible solutions:

Connect the SunRiser to the router. If necessary, do without repeaters or PowerLAN.
Call up the SunRiser Finderhttp://sunriser.ledaquaristik.de/

Also:

If you use a GBit switch, make sure that it also accepts 10/100Mbit devices.
DHCP should be enabled in your router
Check that the SunRiser is not blocked by the router's MAC address filter.
Eco or energy saving mode of the router: off
If necessary, disconnect other network devices as a test

An automatic aquarium light control system or LED daylight simulation system offers great advantages for you and your fish!

Aquarium lights switching on and off suddenly is a source of recurring shock and stress to which your fish are exposed on a daily basis. The inhabitants of the aquarium would be much less nervous if they were gently brought out of their night-time rest. Moreover, a gradual, dimmed sunrise and sunset is not only closer to nature and visually very appealing, it also ensures that you are not suddenly plunged into darkness yourself at some point in the evening.

Our automatic light controls have between 2 and 8 singly and individually programmable channels, depending on the model. This allows each connected LED lamp to be controlled separately in terms of time and brightness. Therefore, in addition to simply modelling the sun rising and setting, you can add details such as stormy weather, clouds, moonshine and many other programs and simulations.

Another big advantage: During the LED daylight simulation, it is only very seldom that all your LED bars are operating simultaneously at full power, which has positive consequences for the electricity they consume. With only a slight throttling of the output (dimming), the power consumption drops almost in direct proportion without the light appearing noticeably less bright. A secondary effect is an extension of the service life of the LED lamp.

Yes, all our LED bars (eco+, PRO², and aquaLUMix) as well as the spotBEAM and powerBEAM pendant lights are dimmable.

Can I simulate daylight with your LED products?

Absolutely! We offer devices for automatic light control and daylight simulation. Our eco+ and PRO² LED bars have several color combinations , which are ideal for daylight simulation. You can also add  effectcolors such as RED (dawn) and ROYAL BLUE (moonlight). The aquaLUMix already have a suitable light combination, and the same applies to powerBEAM & spotBEAM. Further details can be found in the product description.

Yes, this can be done without spending too much time or money.
Lighting units and mains adapters are connected to our controls without a plug. SunRiser control units have push-in screw terminals to which the lighting unit and network adapter cables can be directly attached. We offer suitable adapters so that you do not have to cut off your existing plugs.
Each channel of the SunRiser control system has a positive and negative terminal for connecting your lighting. If you wish to connect lighting with more than one light colour that currently has a common positive terminal, then your lighting units should be divided between the appropriate number of channels/colours/terminals. In addition, the maximum output (per channel and total) must be within the light control system's capacity, see product description or the Overview of light control systems.
In each case, the power is supplied by ONE mains adapter compatible with the lighting. Voltage 12 to 24V DC.
Please note: You cannot operate a mixture of 12V, 20V and/or 24V products! It has to be one of these only!

If you want to connect multicoloured lighting that has a common + pole, this must be divided among the corresponding number of channels/colours/poles. Here using the example of a SunRiser 4+. This set and other adapters for connection can be found here.

Connection of RGB lighting using the example of an Econlux SolarStinger Fresh 35.
This is an RGBW LED lighting, i.e. RGB LEDs (red, green, blue) and W for single-colour white LEDs. This model thus has a total of 4 separately controllable channels/light colours. As the power supply unit is permanently connected to the lamp, the cable must be cut and connected to the light control unit (SunRiser 4+ or 8). This is a 6-core cable, which in the case of the Econlux SolarStinger Fresh 35 is configured as follows:

• Brown = Plus
• White = Minus (white light)
• Red = Minus (red light colour of the RGB)
• Green = Minus (green light colour of the RGB)
• Blue = Minus (blue light colour of the RGB)
• Yellow = Minus (not used here, with other models possibly UV light)

Connecting a Juwel HeliaLux to the SunRiser 2+. The light colours white and blue can thus be dimmed and controlled separately.
This is a 3-core cable configured as follows:

Brown = Plus
Grey = Minus (white light)
Blue = Minus (blue light)

Connection of an EHEIM PowerLED+ to the SunRiser 8. Depending on the version of the lamp, all 2 or 3 light colours can be dimmed and controlled separately.
This is a 3-core cable configured as follows:

• Blue = Plus
• Grey = Minus (without function in this test model)
• Brown = Minus (white light)
• Black = Minus (white light)

OVERVIEW

*An adapter may be required, see connection| **Plug can be removed to make a direct connection to the light control system. Terminals and cable colours see below.

Terminals and cable colours

A light control can only ever control the brightness of the LEDs. The light colour of the individual LED bar or the respective channel of the lamp is fixed. Depending on the mixing of the individual LED bars/channels by the control unit, a different overall colour results.

Example:

LED SUNRISE 100% and LED AFRICAN-SUN 10% = a warm light

LED SUNRISE 50% and LED AFRICAN-SUN 50% = a neutral light

LED SUNRISE 10% and LED AFRICAN-SUN 100% = a cold light

The cable length for the eco+ and PRO² LED bars is 150cm. In order to extend the cables of the LED bars (150cm), which may be too short (to the installation site of the control unit), I recommend the extension cable by the metre with the solder connectors. 

For the aquaLUMix, powerBEAM and multiBEAM products, the cable length is 250cm and should not be extended.

A maximum cable length should always be kept as short as possible. There is a purely physical reason for this: the longer the cable, the higher the voltage drop, the less efficient the lighting. In addition, long cables behave like an antenna; the susceptibility to interference increases massively with the length of the cables. More than 3 m should therefore be avoided if possible.

The cable length of the power supply units is approx. 50cm on the input and output side.

While our LED lights have been on the market since 2013, there have also been occasional complaints. This can never be completely avoided, even with the greatest quality efforts.
Unusual, however, are those (only approx. 0.1% of all orders) in which LED strips already showed partial or complete failures after a relatively short operating time of only a few weeks and months. As a result, these defective LED strips were replaced by us, but unfortunately this only provided a short-term remedy and a similar error pattern was soon apparent. Here the assumption was obvious that overvoltage in the network of the customers was the reason for the failure of the LED lighting. We have therefore examined this topic more closely.

Observe overvoltage protection.

Even if you immediately think of a thunderstorm and lightning strike, overvoltage damage to the LED lighting usually has other, less conspicuous and insidious causes.
A lightning strike leads to a short-term overvoltage and to immediate failure and irrevocable defect of the lighting. Cause and effect are immediately and clearly recognisable. But there is also the long-term overvoltage. This initially goes unnoticed, but considerably impairs the service life of the LED lighting until visible damage and progressive failure occur after just a few weeks and months.
It is already sufficient if fluorescent tubes are operated in the same circuit with conventional ballasts (e.g. another older aquarium lighting) or electric motors (e.g. in vacuum cleaners, drills, etc.). This results in voltage peaks in the nano- or microsecond range, i.e. short-term increases in the mains voltage caused by switching operations in the electrical circuit or electrostatic discharges. For a short time, up to 10,000 volts are released into the line, only for fractions of a second, but this is sufficient to irreparably damage LED modules, electrical components or power supply units. Even power failures in the environment indirectly cause considerable overvoltages when the power is restored and all possible consumers suddenly resume operation at the same time.
How such an event affects the mains in your home and consequently the LED lighting depends on the type of installation and the protective circuits installed by the electrician. If you experience a massive failure of the LED lighting within a few weeks or months, it is in all probability not the quality of the LED lighting, but external influences. A mains filter with overvoltage protection should be installed on the affected supply line. Our LED lights can reach the value of a computer or television set, so you should protect them at least equally against overvoltage. Damage to the LED lighting caused by overvoltage is expressly not covered by the warranty. This is why we recommend the EMZ 504 broadband mains filter with overvoltage protection in the event of an unclean mains supply and/or overvoltage problems, or it can be seen preventively as a kind of "insurance".

No, because 12V is not really 12V. A stabilised DC mains adapter is necessary for LEDs. That means it must output a voltage of 12V DC. An ordinary 12V transformer for halogen bulbs is unsuitable here. The consequences of using one of these could be no light, flickering or even damage.

No, that is not necessarily the case. "K" stands for Kelvin and merely tells us something about the light colour. Brightness is given in lumen (lm). Experience shows that light colours in the 6000 to 7000 Kelvin range appear to the eye to be the brightest. The further a light colour deviates from this range the less bright it will appear to the human eye.

No, because 12V is not really 12V. A stabilised DC mains adapter is necessary for LEDs. That means it must output a voltage of 12V DC. An ordinary 12V transformer for halogen bulbs is unsuitable here. The consequences of using one of these could be no light, flickering or even damage.

Comparison of the properties of T8 and T5 tubes made by established manufacturers with LED bars from LEDaquaristik

Source: DATZ/Amazonas 66 and manufacturers' websites
*The data for the LEDaquaristik products are based on real measured values!

The power consumption value provided in the datasheet refers to a practical value for a ready-to-operate lighting system that contains only the essential components – in this case, an LED bar and a switching power supply.

In our technical specifications, we provide the gross value measured on the 230 V side, as this is relevant to the customer when it comes to the power consumption of the lighting.

For example: For an 80 cm eco+ LED bar combined with a 100W 12VDC switching power supply, the following was observed:

• Directly at the 12V output of the switching power supply, the power consumption of the LED strip is 23 W (net power).
• On the 230V side of the switching power supply, a power consumption of 28 W is measured (gross value). This results in a loss of about 5 W in the switching power supply, which consists of 0.6 W no-load losses (also known as iron losses) and 4.4 W load-dependent losses (also known as copper losses).

When several LED bars are combined in a lighting system and powered by a common switching power supply, the total gross power consumption of the system is typically slightly lower than the sum of the individual power values.

It is important to emphasize that these differences in power consumption have no impact on the light output (measured in lux, lumens, PAR, etc.). The light output data are always based on measurements at 100% power of the lighting unit.

LED water cooling offers several advantages. Firstly, it ensures optimal cooling of the LEDs and effectively uses their waste heat to warm the aquarium. LEDs, both in households and in aquatics, lose brightness over time. The stated LED lifespan, such as 40,000 hours, means that after this time, the LED will only emit 50% of its original brightness. Proper cooling can significantly reduce this performance loss.

Although the temperature-optimized aluminum profile already enables passive cooling, active water cooling is often superior. Water cooling transfers the thermal energy—normally lost in conventional LED bars—into the aquarium water, thus reducing the load on the aquarium heater. This makes LED water cooling with heat recovery a significant advantage for aquarists.

When used with saltwater or aggressive freshwater setups (e.g. very low pH), we recommend using the TITAN extension.

Optimal temperature control: The LEDs operate within the optimal temperature range to maximize lifespan and performance.

Heat recovery: The LED water cooling system utilizes the waste heat from the LEDs to supply warm water to the aquarium.

Energy efficiency: Power consumption of the aquarium heater is significantly reduced. The payback period of LED lighting with heat recovery is shorter.

Efficient water cooling: Two integrated XL channels for water cooling ensure high flow rates, excellent cooling, and maximum efficiency. The system is virtually maintenance-free.

Flexibility: Connect the water cooling systems of multiple PRO² LED bars together.

Silent operation: Our system provides quiet operation for an undisturbed aquarium experience.

Integrated water cooling: Our aluminum profile allows for unrestricted heat exchange between the LEDs and the cooling water, while competitors show lower efficiency.

High-quality construction: The XL channels carry 56% more water for improved cooling performance. Easy access simplifies cleaning. The silicone hose and 180° bend are made from premium materials for durability and shape retention.

The lifespan of LED bars is about 40,000 operating hours under optimal conditions and proper care. This includes measures such as: regular external cleaning, using the CleanCover, avoiding heat build-up, avoiding persistent excessive wetness (not humidity), etc. Water cooling with the PRO and aquaLUMix products can be helpful but is not mandatory if there is sufficient ventilation.

The use of water cooling is an advantage, but not mandatory. The temperature-optimised aluminium profile of the PRO² LED bara and aquaLUMix also provides passive cooling. But with active water cooling, the LEDs are optimally cooled, the waste heat from the LEDs is put to effective use and the aquarium is heated. So if the seasonal temperature fluctuations are large enough, these LED bars can be operated without a water cooling system in midsummer.

There are several options available for mounting LED bars:

• Use our aquarium cover and insert the LED bars into the center profile.
• Special brackets allow for the mounting of LED bar(s) in existing T5 or T8 damp-proof housings.
• Silicone stands enable simple placement of the LED bar on cross or longitudinal braces or cover plates.
• Our aluminium lamp housing in modern design is suitable for open or glass/acrylic-covered aquariums, and can be individually equipped with our LED bars.
• With the LED adapter profile, JUWEL and EHEIM aquariums can be quickly upgraded to modern LED lighting.
• The U-profile serves as a longitudinal or cross-support for LED bars, enabling easy and flexible mounting of the lighting.
• Under individual and spare parts, you can find everything for a customized mounting.

The aquaLUMix comes with an adjustable bracket and other mounting solutions. The spotBEAM can either be mounted with a separately available gooseneck or integrated with other LEDaquaristik mounting solutions.

Yes, the LED bars are specifically designed to be installed in existing, enclosed covers. Due to their waterproof rating (IP67), they are suitable for moist aquarium covers but should not be placed directly underwater. Persistent dampness and deposits like lime and dirt may impair the quality and lifespan of the LED bars. Thus, we recommend using our special CleanCover to protect the LED bars. The LED bars cool passively through the ambient air, so adequate air circulation is crucial. In most cases, the existing openings for cables and hoses in the cover are sufficient for this purpose.

When mounting LED bars, it is essential to choose an attachment that suits the existing ceiling texture and construction. Our cable systems come with standard anchors and screws, but these may be unsuitable for your specific on-site situation. Therefore, it's recommended to check and adjust the attachment materials according to the individual requirements.

The minimum distance between the LED bar and the water surface should be 50mm or the LED bar must not get wet permanently or repeatedly.
Our LED bars (eco+, PRO² and aquaLUMix) are manufactured according to protection class IP67 and can also be used inside a wet aquarium cover. Not suitable for underwater use! 
Choose a ventilated place for the LED bar. The LED bar cools passively via the ambient air; there must be sufficient air circulation. Complete enclosure leads to a build-up of heat and impairs the service life. With closed aquarium covers, the existing openings for cables and hoses are usually sufficient for ventilation. If an above-average amount of LED lighting is installed, observe the heat development in the cover and create additional openings for ventilation if necessary.

You have a completely free choice in this. We recommend you take a few minutes and test various alternatives. Then decide on which one looks the best to you. From our experience, a beautiful optical effect of depth is created when warm light colours (low Kelvin values) are placed towards the back with brighter whiter light colours towards the front. Moonlight, on the other hand, is better at the back. The influence of any specific positional order depends on  how closely the individual LED bars or light colours are installed together.

Intended use

Our products and all parts included in the scope of delivery are intended exclusively for the illumination of aquariums, terrariums and plant cultivation in compliance with the technical data.

Safety instructions

The devices purchased may pose a risk to persons and property if they are used improperly or not in accordance with their intended use or if the safety instructions are not observed. Remove the packaging before putting the unit into operation!

• The devices can be used by children aged 8 years and above and persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the device in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children must not play with the device and must be supervised during cleaning and user maintenance.
• Before use, visually inspect the device to ensure that it is undamaged, especially the power cord and plug.
• Check that the LED bar is firmly seated before use.
• The electrical devices may only be operated indoors.
• Power supply unit, dimmer, controls or distributor must not be placed on or inside the aquarium cover!
• Always disconnect the mains plug before working on the LED bar!
• Operation only with the FI circuit breaker, max. 30 mA.
• The mains plugs of the electrical devices must not get wet. Connect the mains plugs to the mains at a height so that there is a loop in the connecting cable where water could drip off.
• The minimum distance of the LED bar to the water surface should be 50mm or the LED bar must not get wet permanently or repeatedly.
• The light sources manufactured according to protection class IP67 can also be used inside an aquarium cover.
• Explicitly not suitable for underwater use! LED spotlights manufactured to protection class IP44 must not be used inside a damp environment or even inside the aquarium cover.
• LED bars of protection class IP67 cannot be opened and must be completely replaced if defective.
  Avoid looking directly into the switched-on LEDs for a longer period of time, otherwise you risk eye injuries! This applies in particular to UV LEDs.

Our products comply with the directives of the European Community (EU) and are therefore CE-compliant.

Our LED bars do not have plugs. This has the advantage for you that any cable extensions are easily installed without causing great disruption. The other aspect is that plug and socket connections are always a source of potential failures.
The necessary items for connecting to other accessories will be supplied to suit the rest of the order. Mains adapters, dimmers, distributors and controls generally come with their own connections and plugs.

The minimum distance between the LED bar and the water surface should be 50mm or the LED bar must not get wet permanently or repeatedly.
Our LED bars (eco+, PRO² and aquaLUMix) are manufactured according to protection class IP67 and can also be used inside a wet aquarium cover. Not suitable for underwater use! 
Choose a ventilated place for the LED bar. The LED bar cools passively via the ambient air; there must be sufficient air circulation. Complete enclosure leads to a build-up of heat and impairs the service life. With closed aquarium covers, the existing openings for cables and hoses are usually sufficient for ventilation. If an above-average amount of LED lighting is installed, observe the heat development in the cover and create additional openings for ventilation if necessary.

Modul system eco+/PRO²

A convincing daylight simulation can be achieved with 2 light colours, e.g. SUNRISE and DAYLIGHT. Whether to use RED additional or instead of SUNRISE for sunrise and sunset is largely a matter of personal taste. The same applies to the actual "daylight". Our customers use everything from SUNRISE, through DAYLIGHT to MARINE.
Because plants and fish exhibit an infinite variety of colour, it is impossible to say what would be a perfect configuration. If it were possible, we would not offer today's this variety of different colours ;-) but with this range of colours everyone is able to compose optimum and individual lighting conditions for their aquariums, be they East African, Amazonian, Asian etc.
If you prefer bluish colours, you should consider DAYLIGHT, AFRICAN-SUN, MARINE etc. Whereas, if orange and red colours are preferred or you have luxuriant planting schemes, the light colours SUNRISE, AMAZON-GROW would be a good combination. RED and ROYAL BLUE come into play for creating special accents and effects.

Because our customers occasionally become uncertain when faced with such a wide choice, we suggest the following:
with a colour combination of SUNRISE & DAYLIGHT the colour spectrum is well and broadly covered, which means it is difficult to go wrong. See Light comparison. Our experiences with this composition have been very good. These light colours are also very suitable for daylight simulation systems. This is our recommended standard configuration.
Whether you choose to have 2-4 different series of lamps and light colours or restrict yourself to 1-2 depends on your particular aquarium lighting requirements. Depending on your requirements, you can also combine other light colours (RED = dawn reds, ROYAL BLUE = moonlight). Of course, you can add to this very easily at any time in the future. (Assuming the mains adapter has the required capacity)

Compact system aquaLUMix

The question as to the best choice of colour no longer arises with aquaLUMix as, based on years of experience, we've already equipped these compact lights with optimum light combinations. We offer 3 ready-configured lights for freshwater and seawater aquariums in a choice of 7 lengths, from 24 to 144cm. In the case of aquariums of over 150cm in length, two lights are simply combined together.

Depending on the inhabitants and set-up of your aquarium, as well as personal taste, you can choose one of 4 colour combinations - a fitting solution for every area:

• AMAZON GROW - A bright, tropical light with a focus on optimum plant growth, including Grow LEDs. (e.g. for thickly-planted Amazon or Asian aquariums)
• AFRICAN SUN - A higher proportion of blue in the daytime light, augmented by a colour-intensifying light composition. (e.g. for cichlid aquarium with Malawis or Tanganyikas)
• SEAWATER - Basically, a high proportion of blue with white and blue light, with additional special colours like red, violet and ultraviolet. (For seawater aquariums)

Every variation of the aquaLUMix is equipped with 4 separately controllable light channels, thus offering incomparable lighting options. Thus, besides light colours for general daytime lighting, LEDs for moonlight and sunrise are also integrated. In addition, a fastener, a splashguard and a water cooling system that can be used if necessary are already included. A suitable mains supply unit and, if desired, a light control or splitter should be ordered separately!

You'll find details on this light and colour configuration in the technical data further down this page.

For a planted aquarium, a special combination of light colors is recommended for vibrant plant growth. The GROWx5 and PLANT-GROW LED bars or those with a higher red component, such as SUNRISE or AMAZON-GROW bars, are particularly suitable. A mix of SUNSET, DAYLIGHT AMAZON-GROW covers almost the entire color spectrum. These combinations have proven effective and are excellent for day simulation. With less planting, combinations like SUNRISE+DAYLIGHT or AMAZON-GROW might be a good choice. Red or reddish light, such as RED or GROWx5 and PLANT-GROW, further enhances growth and highlights red plants and fish. Our aquaLUMix compact lights are already optimally configured, with the AMAZON-GROW variant for optimal plant growth including GROW LED bars. The choice of light colors may also be a matter of personal taste.

The following example shows a comparison of lighting configurations with and without GROWx5, which makes the basic advantages easier to see:

Logic tells us that there are unlimited possibilities for combining our light colours. Of course, GROWx5 bars may also be combined with 1 or even 3 additional light colours. The advantages and disadvantages mentioned above must then be weighed up. And last but not least, the number of LED bars always depends on the type of lighting you want....!

For aquariums ranging in length from 120 to 140 cm, a single LED bar may be sufficient. However, the number of required LED bars depends on several factors:

- Aquarium Size: For example, a 120x50x50cm Malawi Lake aquarium is illuminated with one 50% dimmed LED bar, while a 300x90x70cm aquarium requires two bars.

- Plantation: Heavily planted Amazon aquariums around 120cm require two or three LED bars.

- Floor Color: A dark floor requires more light as it does not reflect light like a bright floor does.

- Demanding Plants: More light is needed for dense or demanding plantings.

- Individual Taste: Everyone has different preferences and expectations for lighting.

See Photos of our customers for further details.

Here is a non-binding overview to help you decide on the number of LED bars:

Degree of planting	Plant light requirements	Number of eco+ LED bars or rows	Number ofPRO² LED bars or rows	Number of aquaLUMix lamps
None or light		1	1	1
Medium		2	1-2	1
High		3-4	2	1
Extreme		4+	2+	1-2
The values relate to average tank heights and widths of about 60cm. The arrangement of the bars, central, offset, split, or placed next to one another is completely up to you. As is the choice of light colours! Please note that every aquarium, including yours, is an individual one-off object and therefore the question of lighting cannot be decided remotely.

Comparison of GROWx5 and PLANT-GROW: GROWx5 is a unique light composition from 5 wavelengths that promotes optimal photosynthesis and healthy plant growth. PLANT-GROW, on the other hand, combines these light spectrums in one chip, is more subtle, and produces brighter, more even light. Both are designed as optional lights with "white" light colors, as they appear slightly purple/violet on their own. They enhance the overall color brilliance of your aquarium.

Operating Principle of GROWx5 and PLANT-GROW: They promote photosynthesis through a broader light spectrum. Red and Infrared: for lush plant growth. Blue Light: for lush green and compact growth. Green: supports photosynthesis by absorption through carotenoids and other auxiliary pigments, contrary to the widespread belief that green is only reflected.

Moonlight in LED bars is typically the color ROYAL BLUE or alternatively MARINE. The products aquaLUMix, powerBEAM, and spotBEAM already have moonlight integrated, making them particularly suitable for this purpose.

LED bars (eco+, PRO², aquaLUMix)

LED bars are unique for their:

• Uniform illumination across the entire length
• Sleek design with a small cross-section
• Various mounting options
• Integration into standard flat aquarium covers
• Complete dimmability and controllability
• Easy expansion with additional colors and bars

LED spotlights (FlexBeam, easyBEAM)

LED spotlights, on the other hand, offer:

• Top-down installation, suitable for open or glass-covered aquariums
• Easy retrofitting of existing HQL installations
• Limited light cone with focused illumination
• Pronounced halo effect on the floor
• Direct connection to 230V – not dimmable or controllable
• No additional LED power supply needed

LED hanging light (powerBEAM)

The LED hanging light is ideal for large aquariums, as it:

• Provides enormous light output with a small number of units
• Is fully dimmable and controllable (with minor compromises)
• Features integrated moonlight and sunlight (Seawater only moonlight)
• Boasts a modern industrial design

The differences between these products depend on your individual lighting needs. The aquaLUMix provides a compact and highly powerful solution with all the light colors needed for an appealing daylight simulation. It also includes an integrated mount and the ability for heat recovery.

If you prefer a tailor-made lighting solution, then eco+ or PRO² might be a better option. These modular systems allow additional control over the arrangement, quantity, and length of individual LED bars. The choice depends on your vision of perfect lighting, whether you opt for the ready-made solution (aquaLUMix) or prefer a customizable system (eco+/PRO²).

The cable length for the eco+ and PRO² LED bars is 150cm. In order to extend the cables of the LED bars (150cm), which may be too short (to the installation site of the control unit), I recommend the extension cable by the metre with the solder connectors. 

For the aquaLUMix, powerBEAM and multiBEAM products, the cable length is 250cm and should not be extended.

A maximum cable length should always be kept as short as possible. There is a purely physical reason for this: the longer the cable, the higher the voltage drop, the less efficient the lighting. In addition, long cables behave like an antenna; the susceptibility to interference increases massively with the length of the cables. More than 3 m should therefore be avoided if possible.

The cable length of the power supply units is approx. 50cm on the input and output side.

Yes, LED bars do generate heat during operation. This heat arises because the LED chips convert energy into light, and some of that energy is released as heat. However, our LED bars are equipped with specially designed aluminum profiles that effectively dissipate this heat. This ensures that the bars operate safely and efficiently.

We have tested RGBs extensively. The light produced, especially the white, which is probably mainly used, looks very unnatural or cold and artificial, usually with a blue tinge. You need to know that white light in RGBs is produced by mixing red, green and blue colours. Thus, the colour rendering quality and especially the light output falls far behind that of single-colour LEDs.

The fact that white light within an RGB chip is generated from the primary colours red, green and blue leads to another disadvantage. An RGB chip can only reproduce one light colour at a time. Example: White light for main lighting and a slowly appearing reddish light for a sunset are not possible. With RGB, all the light would turn red...from white to pink to red. With single-colour LEDs, you can have red, blue or white LED bars shine as you like, simultaneously or overlapping at different times.

LED bars are typically not available longer than 140 to 144cm as this is the maximum physical length. The reason for this is related to voltage drop: The longer the LED bar, the higher the voltage drop, and the less efficient it becomes. Therefore, anything over 140cm would hardly be economical. To create longer lighting solutions, one can combine various shorter LED bars, such as 2x100cm, 2x80cm, 80+100cm, etc.

As you probably already know, LEDs are sensitive to heat. A high luminous intensity inevitably also leads to a high LED operating temperature, which in turn has a direct effect on the service life of the LED. For this reason, a crucial and indispensable consideration in the design of LED products is how they cope with heat.

Ideally, the LEDs should be mounted "bare" on a good cooling body. The area of use – in aquariums – also makes it essential for the LEDs to have a watertight seal. There are three materials available for achieving all this: Epoxide (synthetic resin), polyurethane (PU) adhesive and silicon.

Most waterproof LED bars available on the market are sealed with epoxide, which means they are very inexpensive. However, from a technical point of view they are not the best choice because they quickly discolour and become brittle.

ClearSealing is a special production process in which a special high-performance silicone gives the LED bars a watertight seal. UV and temperature stable! Although this process results in longer production times and higher manufacturing costs, the characteristics it produces cannot fail to impress:

Temperature:

• Our silicone has a much higher thermal conductivity than epoxide or PU and therefore has almost no effects on the service life. Our LED bars have the big advantage that the LEDs are permanently and directly attached to the cooling body. Thus the heat they create is directly and efficiently conducted away.

Left: LEDs in epoxide after 3 and 5 months respectively, right: LEDs in silicone after 6 months

External influences:

• The chemical properties of epoxide and PU make the materials highly sensitive to external influences such as heat and moisture. Therefore they can quickly become very hard, stiff and brittle, which adversely affects their role as sealants. Our silicone is much more stable and retains its properties.

Transparency:

• Our silicone is highly transparent, whereas epoxide and PU increasingly reduce the luminous intensity.

Beam angle:

• The production process is specially designed for the materials used and their properties. Thus we are able to achieve a beam angle of almost 160° with ClearSealing technology. And we do that completely without reflectors or lenses!

UV stability:

• Our silicone is much more UV stable. Epoxide and PU go yellow by comparison after just a few months even with a low proportion of UV light.

Left: LEDs in silicone after 1 + 3 months, right LEDs in epoxide after 1,2,3 months respectively.

Yes, all our LED bars (eco+, PRO², and aquaLUMix) as well as the spotBEAM and powerBEAM pendant lights are dimmable.

Can I simulate daylight with your LED products?

Absolutely! We offer devices for automatic light control and daylight simulation. Our eco+ and PRO² LED bars have several color combinations , which are ideal for daylight simulation. You can also add  effectcolors such as RED (dawn) and ROYAL BLUE (moonlight). The aquaLUMix already have a suitable light combination, and the same applies to powerBEAM & spotBEAM. Further details can be found in the product description.

The lifespan of LED bars is about 40,000 operating hours under optimal conditions and proper care. This includes measures such as: regular external cleaning, using the CleanCover, avoiding heat build-up, avoiding persistent excessive wetness (not humidity), etc. Water cooling with the PRO and aquaLUMix products can be helpful but is not mandatory if there is sufficient ventilation.

Yes, of course, you can create your desired lighting effect with a mix of eco+ and PRO² LED bars. Our mains adapters and controls are compatible with both models (12V DC). In the choice of your LED bar holders, we would draw your attention to the instructions in the product descriptions. For example, the PRO² LED bars are compatible with only the "solo" version of our T5/T8 holders. The lamp housings can be configured either with a maximum of 4x eco+ or 2x PRO² and 1x eco+ LED bars.
The aquaLUMix can also be electrically combined with the eco + or PRO² LED bars in one system, but the fastening is done separately.

Yes, of course, but the following must be taken into account.
Compared to fresh water, seawater is an extremely aggressive medium and only very few materials can withstand direct and permanent contact. In order not to unnecessarily shorten the service life of the LED bars, appropriate precautions should be taken when using them in seawater. In addition to the CleanCoverns, an additional glass or acrylic pane on the aquarium is highly recommended to keep seawater away from the LED bars.

Depending on the size of the aquarium, our first recommendation is always aquaLUMix, spotBEAM or powerBEAM SEAWATER. With this lighting, you get an ideally balanced spectrum on the one hand and a lot of power on the other. To achieve an even more dominant blue peak in the spectrum or even in the UV range, these lights can be wonderfully combined with the eco+ ROYAL BLUE or the PRO² with UV.

To achieve the same performance values with only the individual eco+ or PRO² LED bars, a large number of units would be necessary, which complicates the entire handling up to the control unit.

The following applies to the eco+ and PRO² LED bars: The light colours REEF (11,000K) and CORAL (50% white, 33% blue, 17% red) together with the light colours POLAR (7,500K), MARINE (13,000K) and ROYAL BLUE (460nm) form a wide range for the best possible lighting of marine aquariums. Depending on the requirements of the stock, an individual light mixture can be selected in this way. You would have to determine the final number yourself; depending on the requirements of the stock, a corresponding number of LED bars are used. As a rough guide, at least 50% of the conventional light output should be selected in LED. So, for example, if you used to use 100W tube lighting, you should now use at least 50W LED lighting.

If the aquaLUMix or PRO² LED bars are chosen and the heat recovery function is to be used, we strongly recommend using the TITAN extension.

Yes. Our LED lamps are so effective and bright that they can be used for terraristics. LED lighting with the PLANT-GROW, among other things, is recommended, especially with a view to the planting.

However, since an enormous variety of different animal species can be considered for a terrarium, the stocking should be given special consideration when selecting and purchasing the LEDs. For technical reasons, normal LEDs quickly lack the UVA range completely, so it makes sense to use an additional light source if your terrarium or animals need to die. For this purpose you will find the PRO² LED bar in the MIX variant UVA ✚ SKY-GROW - full spectrum 2.0. This is perfect for use in terraristics, please note the product description!

Advantage in addition to the power consumption: LEDs only develop a small amount of waste heat, whoever uses them as additional lighting does not have to pay attention to additional heat development in the terrarium. Thanks to the special sealing of our LED strips (protection class IP67), use in high humidity is also possible without any problems. The CleanCover is also strongly recommended here.

We use an extremely efficient 5630 SMD LED with an excellent colour rendering index of up to 90 Ra (CRI)! These LEDs are perfect for use in aquariums, which demand very good colour rendering.

Why 5630/573 SMD LEDs?

• High brightness combined with low electricity consumption
• Very good colour rendering
• Long service life
• Very good price/performance ratio

Here is an overview of the SMD LEDs available on the market and their characteristics:

SMD stands for Surface-Mounted Device: In contrast to other LEDs, SMD LEDs are not connected by wires but are soldered directly onto the printed circuit board.
 
Advantages:

• Very low heat emissions
• Low voltage and current requirements
• Compact size
• More tolerant of mechanical vibration loads
• Low terminal resistance and impedance
• Low weight due to the absence of connecting wires

• You can return the goods within 14 days of receipt.
• To do so, please use the below withdrawal form and return the relevant items to us with sufficient postage.
• You will receive a credit note or refund after the goods have arrived and been checked.
• For the items you would like to buy instead, place a new regular order via our shop. It is not possible to offset the orders.

Return:

• You can return the goods within 14 days of receipt.
• To do so, please use the below withdrawal form and return the relevant items to us with sufficient postage. The return shipping costs are to be paid by the buyer.
  Send to: LEDaquaristik GmbH, Retour, Schierbusch 2, 33161 Hövelhof, Germany
  
• Please also note that we will charge for any signs of use or transport damage. Therefore, please ensure that the items are well packaged.
• A refund will be issued after the goods have arrived and been inspected via the originally selected payment method.

Exchange:

• For the items you wish to purchase instead, place a new regular order through our store. It is not possible to offset the orders.

Excluded from withdrawal:

• Items that are excluded from the right of return include, among others, aquarium covers and additional items that are made to customer-specific measurements and thus are made to order. (U-profiles, E-profiles, gravel trims), see Withdrawal policy

In case of normal order situation, we usually ship within 24 hours after receipt of payment. The delivery of the order within Germany then takes 1-3 days later. 

Products that are specially made, or the delivery abroad take about more time.

LED bars (eco+, PRO², aquaLUMix)

LED bars are unique for their:

• Uniform illumination across the entire length
• Sleek design with a small cross-section
• Various mounting options
• Integration into standard flat aquarium covers
• Complete dimmability and controllability
• Easy expansion with additional colors and bars

LED spotlights (FlexBeam, easyBEAM)

LED spotlights, on the other hand, offer:

• Top-down installation, suitable for open or glass-covered aquariums
• Easy retrofitting of existing HQL installations
• Limited light cone with focused illumination
• Pronounced halo effect on the floor
• Direct connection to 230V – not dimmable or controllable
• No additional LED power supply needed

LED hanging light (powerBEAM)

The LED hanging light is ideal for large aquariums, as it:

• Provides enormous light output with a small number of units
• Is fully dimmable and controllable (with minor compromises)
• Features integrated moonlight and sunlight (Seawater only moonlight)
• Boasts a modern industrial design

LED bars (eco+, PRO², aquaLUMix)

LED bars are unique for their:

• Uniform illumination across the entire length
• Sleek design with a small cross-section
• Various mounting options
• Integration into standard flat aquarium covers
• Complete dimmability and controllability
• Easy expansion with additional colors and bars

LED spotlights (FlexBeam, easyBEAM)

LED spotlights, on the other hand, offer:

• Top-down installation, suitable for open or glass-covered aquariums
• Easy retrofitting of existing HQL installations
• Limited light cone with focused illumination
• Pronounced halo effect on the floor
• Direct connection to 230V – not dimmable or controllable
• No additional LED power supply needed

LED hanging light (powerBEAM)

The LED hanging light is ideal for large aquariums, as it:

• Provides enormous light output with a small number of units
• Is fully dimmable and controllable (with minor compromises)
• Features integrated moonlight and sunlight (Seawater only moonlight)
• Boasts a modern industrial design

Yes, all our LED bars (eco+, PRO², and aquaLUMix) as well as the spotBEAM and powerBEAM pendant lights are dimmable.

Can I simulate daylight with your LED products?

Absolutely! We offer devices for automatic light control and daylight simulation. Our eco+ and PRO² LED bars have several color combinations , which are ideal for daylight simulation. You can also add  effectcolors such as RED (dawn) and ROYAL BLUE (moonlight). The aquaLUMix already have a suitable light combination, and the same applies to powerBEAM & spotBEAM. Further details can be found in the product description.

The lifespan of LED bars is about 40,000 operating hours under optimal conditions and proper care. This includes measures such as: regular external cleaning, using the CleanCover, avoiding heat build-up, avoiding persistent excessive wetness (not humidity), etc. Water cooling with the PRO and aquaLUMix products can be helpful but is not mandatory if there is sufficient ventilation.

Yes, of course, but the following must be taken into account.
Compared to fresh water, seawater is an extremely aggressive medium and only very few materials can withstand direct and permanent contact. In order not to unnecessarily shorten the service life of the LED bars, appropriate precautions should be taken when using them in seawater. In addition to the CleanCoverns, an additional glass or acrylic pane on the aquarium is highly recommended to keep seawater away from the LED bars.

Depending on the size of the aquarium, our first recommendation is always aquaLUMix, spotBEAM or powerBEAM SEAWATER. With this lighting, you get an ideally balanced spectrum on the one hand and a lot of power on the other. To achieve an even more dominant blue peak in the spectrum or even in the UV range, these lights can be wonderfully combined with the eco+ ROYAL BLUE or the PRO² with UV.

To achieve the same performance values with only the individual eco+ or PRO² LED bars, a large number of units would be necessary, which complicates the entire handling up to the control unit.

The following applies to the eco+ and PRO² LED bars: The light colours REEF (11,000K) and CORAL (50% white, 33% blue, 17% red) together with the light colours POLAR (7,500K), MARINE (13,000K) and ROYAL BLUE (460nm) form a wide range for the best possible lighting of marine aquariums. Depending on the requirements of the stock, an individual light mixture can be selected in this way. You would have to determine the final number yourself; depending on the requirements of the stock, a corresponding number of LED bars are used. As a rough guide, at least 50% of the conventional light output should be selected in LED. So, for example, if you used to use 100W tube lighting, you should now use at least 50W LED lighting.

If the aquaLUMix or PRO² LED bars are chosen and the heat recovery function is to be used, we strongly recommend using the TITAN extension.

Yes. Our LED lamps are so effective and bright that they can be used for terraristics. LED lighting with the PLANT-GROW, among other things, is recommended, especially with a view to the planting.

However, since an enormous variety of different animal species can be considered for a terrarium, the stocking should be given special consideration when selecting and purchasing the LEDs. For technical reasons, normal LEDs quickly lack the UVA range completely, so it makes sense to use an additional light source if your terrarium or animals need to die. For this purpose you will find the PRO² LED bar in the MIX variant UVA ✚ SKY-GROW - full spectrum 2.0. This is perfect for use in terraristics, please note the product description!

Advantage in addition to the power consumption: LEDs only develop a small amount of waste heat, whoever uses them as additional lighting does not have to pay attention to additional heat development in the terrarium. Thanks to the special sealing of our LED strips (protection class IP67), use in high humidity is also possible without any problems. The CleanCover is also strongly recommended here.

The differences between these products depend on your individual lighting needs. The aquaLUMix provides a compact and highly powerful solution with all the light colors needed for an appealing daylight simulation. It also includes an integrated mount and the ability for heat recovery.

If you prefer a tailor-made lighting solution, then eco+ or PRO² might be a better option. These modular systems allow additional control over the arrangement, quantity, and length of individual LED bars. The choice depends on your vision of perfect lighting, whether you opt for the ready-made solution (aquaLUMix) or prefer a customizable system (eco+/PRO²).

LED water cooling offers several advantages. Firstly, it ensures optimal cooling of the LEDs and effectively uses their waste heat to warm the aquarium. LEDs, both in households and in aquatics, lose brightness over time. The stated LED lifespan, such as 40,000 hours, means that after this time, the LED will only emit 50% of its original brightness. Proper cooling can significantly reduce this performance loss.

Although the temperature-optimized aluminum profile already enables passive cooling, active water cooling is often superior. Water cooling transfers the thermal energy—normally lost in conventional LED bars—into the aquarium water, thus reducing the load on the aquarium heater. This makes LED water cooling with heat recovery a significant advantage for aquarists.

When used with saltwater or aggressive freshwater setups (e.g. very low pH), we recommend using the TITAN extension.

Optimal temperature control: The LEDs operate within the optimal temperature range to maximize lifespan and performance.

Heat recovery: The LED water cooling system utilizes the waste heat from the LEDs to supply warm water to the aquarium.

Energy efficiency: Power consumption of the aquarium heater is significantly reduced. The payback period of LED lighting with heat recovery is shorter.

Efficient water cooling: Two integrated XL channels for water cooling ensure high flow rates, excellent cooling, and maximum efficiency. The system is virtually maintenance-free.

Flexibility: Connect the water cooling systems of multiple PRO² LED bars together.

Silent operation: Our system provides quiet operation for an undisturbed aquarium experience.

Integrated water cooling: Our aluminum profile allows for unrestricted heat exchange between the LEDs and the cooling water, while competitors show lower efficiency.

High-quality construction: The XL channels carry 56% more water for improved cooling performance. Easy access simplifies cleaning. The silicone hose and 180° bend are made from premium materials for durability and shape retention.

Yes, all our LED bars (eco+, PRO², and aquaLUMix) as well as the spotBEAM and powerBEAM pendant lights are dimmable.

Can I simulate daylight with your LED products?

Absolutely! We offer devices for automatic light control and daylight simulation. Our eco+ and PRO² LED bars have several color combinations , which are ideal for daylight simulation. You can also add  effectcolors such as RED (dawn) and ROYAL BLUE (moonlight). The aquaLUMix already have a suitable light combination, and the same applies to powerBEAM & spotBEAM. Further details can be found in the product description.

Yes, of course, but the following must be taken into account.
Compared to fresh water, seawater is an extremely aggressive medium and only very few materials can withstand direct and permanent contact. In order not to unnecessarily shorten the service life of the LED bars, appropriate precautions should be taken when using them in seawater. In addition to the CleanCoverns, an additional glass or acrylic pane on the aquarium is highly recommended to keep seawater away from the LED bars.

Depending on the size of the aquarium, our first recommendation is always aquaLUMix, spotBEAM or powerBEAM SEAWATER. With this lighting, you get an ideally balanced spectrum on the one hand and a lot of power on the other. To achieve an even more dominant blue peak in the spectrum or even in the UV range, these lights can be wonderfully combined with the eco+ ROYAL BLUE or the PRO² with UV.

To achieve the same performance values with only the individual eco+ or PRO² LED bars, a large number of units would be necessary, which complicates the entire handling up to the control unit.

The following applies to the eco+ and PRO² LED bars: The light colours REEF (11,000K) and CORAL (50% white, 33% blue, 17% red) together with the light colours POLAR (7,500K), MARINE (13,000K) and ROYAL BLUE (460nm) form a wide range for the best possible lighting of marine aquariums. Depending on the requirements of the stock, an individual light mixture can be selected in this way. You would have to determine the final number yourself; depending on the requirements of the stock, a corresponding number of LED bars are used. As a rough guide, at least 50% of the conventional light output should be selected in LED. So, for example, if you used to use 100W tube lighting, you should now use at least 50W LED lighting.

If the aquaLUMix or PRO² LED bars are chosen and the heat recovery function is to be used, we strongly recommend using the TITAN extension.